23 Oz Vampiress Art Pool Stick With Hard Case Chalk and Cue Tip Tool

A typically wooden shaft used for playing pool

A pool cue and its major parts.^{[1] : 71–72 [ii]}

A cue stick (or merely cue, more specifically billiards cue, pool cue, or snooker cue) is an item of sporting equipment essential to the games of puddle, snooker and carom billiards. Information technology is used to strike a ball, usually the cue ball . Cues are tapered sticks, typically most 57–59 inches (about 1.5 one thousand) long and usually betwixt sixteen and 21 ounces (450–600 g), with professionals gravitating toward a 19-ounce (540 g) boilerplate. Cues for carom tend toward the shorter range, though cue length is primarily a factor of player height and arm length. Almost cues are fabricated of wood, but occasionally the wood is covered or bonded with other materials including graphite, carbon fiber or fiberglass. An obsolete term for a cue, used from the 16th to early 19th centuries, is billiard stick.^{[iii] [4]}

History [edit]

This section needs expansion. You tin can help by adding to it. (April 2009)

Human being playing billiards with cue and woman with mace, from an illustration in Michael Phelan's 1859 volume, The Game of Billiards

The forerunner of the cue was the mace , an implement similar to a light-weight golf game club, with a foot that was generally used to shove rather than strike the cue ball.^[iii] When the ball was frozen confronting a rails cushion , use of the mace was difficult (the pes would not fit under the edge of the cushion to strike the ball squarely), and by 1670 experienced players frequently used the tail or butt end of the mace instead.^[iii] The term "cue" comes from queue, the French word for "tail", in reference to this exercise,^[3] a fashion of shooting that eventually led to the evolution of split, footless cue sticks by about 1800, used initially as adjuncts to the mace,^[three] which remained in use until well into the 19th century.^[5] In public billiard rooms only skilled players were allowed to utilise the cue, because the delicate cloth could exist torn by novices.^[3] The introduction of the cue, and the new game possibilities information technology engendered, led to the development of cushions with more than rebound, initially stuffed with linen or cotton flocking, but eventually replaced by safety.^[3]

The idea of the cue initially was to try to strike the cue-ball as centrally as possible to avoid a miscue .^[3] The concept of spin on the cue ball was discovered before cue-tips had been invented; e.yard. striking the lesser of the cue ball to make information technology go backwards upon contact with an object brawl .^[3] François Mingaud was studying the game of billiards while being held in Paris every bit a political prisoner, and experimented with a leather cue tip. In 1807, he was released and demonstrated his invention.^[three] Mingaud is also credited with the discovery that by raising the cue vertically, to the position adopted past the mace, he could perform what is now known as a massé shot.^[three]

In pre-tip days, it was common for players to twist the ends of their cue into a plaster wall or ceiling so that a chalk-like eolith would form on the terminate to reduce the adventure of a miscue, thus giving rising to the modern billiard chalk .^[3] The showtime systematic marketing of chalk was by John Carr, a marking in John Bartley's billiard rooms in Bathroom. Betwixt Carr and Bartley, it was discovered how " side " ( sidespin ) could be used to the advantage of players, and Carr began selling chalk in pocket-sized boxes. He chosen information technology "twisting pulverisation", and the magical impression this gave the public enabled him to sell it for a higher price than if they realized it was simply chalk in a minor box.^[3] " English ", an American term for sidespin, derives from the British discovery of sidespin's effects, equally "massé" comes from the French discussion for "mace".^[iii]

Types [edit]

Pool and snooker cues average around 57–59 inches (140–150 cm) in length and are of three major types. The simplest type is a one-piece cue; these are generally stocked in pool halls for communal use. They have a uniform taper, meaning they subtract in diameter evenly from the end or butt to the tip. A second type is the two-piece cue, divided in the middle for ease of ship, usually in a cue instance or pouch. A 3rd variety is another ii-piece cue, just with a joint located three-quarters down the cue (usually 12 or 16 inches abroad from the butt), known as a "3-quarter two-slice", used past snooker players.

Puddle [edit]

A typical two piece cue for pocket billiards is usually made more often than not of hard or rock maple, with a fiberglass or phenolic resin ferrule , commonly 0.75 to i inch (19 to 25 mm) long, and steel articulation collars and pin . Puddle cues boilerplate around 59 inches (150 cm) long, are commonly available in 17–21 ounces (0.48–0.60 kg) weights, with 19 ounces (0.54 kg) being the most common, and usually have a tip diameter in the range of 12 to 14 mm.^[6] A conical taper , with the shaft gradually shrinking in bore from joint to ferrule, is favored past some, but the "pro" taper is increasingly pop, directly for most of the length of the shaft from ferrule back, flaring to joint diameter simply in the final ane⁄iv to ane⁄3 of the shaft. While there are many custom cuemakers, a very large number of quality pool cues are manufactured in bulk. In recent years, modernistic materials such as fiberglass, carbon cobweb, aluminum, etc., have been used more and more than for shafts and butts. A tendency toward experimentation has besides developed with rubber, retentivity cream and other soft wraps .

Carom [edit]

Carom billiards cues tend to exist shorter and lighter than puddle cues, with a shorter ferrule, a thicker butt and joint, a wooden joint pin (ideally) and collarless wood-to-forest joint, a conical taper, and a smaller tip diameter. Typical dimensions are 54–56 inches (140–140 cm) long, 16.v–18.5 ounces (0.47–0.52 kg) in weight, with an eleven–12 mm diameter tip.^[half-dozen] The specialization makes the cue stiffer, for treatment the heavier billiard balls and acting to reduce deflection .^{[ane] : 79, 241} The woods used in carom cues can vary widely, and near quality carom cues are handmade.

Snooker [edit]

Snooker cue with two detachable extensions

At 57–58 inches (140–150 cm), a cue designed for snooker is ordinarily shorter than the typical 59 inch puddle cue and has detachable butt extensions for making the cue 6 inches (xv cm) longer or more.^[7] Many snooker cues are jointed, normally with contumely fittings, 2⁄3 or even 3⁄four of the way back toward the butt bumper , providing an unusually long shaft, rather than at the half-style signal, where pool and carom cues are jointed. This necessitates an extra long cue case. Some models are jointed in 2 places, with the long shaft having a smooth and subtle woods-to-wood joint. Snooker cue tips are usually 8.5 – 10.5 mm in bore to provide more than accuracy and finesse with snooker balls, which are smaller than pool and carom varieties. Snooker butts are usually apartment on one side so that the cue may exist laid flat on the tabular array bed and slid forth the baize under a cushion to strike the cushion-ward side of the cue ball when information technology is frozen to the cushion (such a shot is non legal in pool or carom games under most rulesets). This tactile flat function of the butt likewise helps the player develop a very specific way of belongings the cue, consequent on every shot for a very compatible stroke (snooker, in the example of many if not nigh shots, requires much more precision than pool). Snooker cue weights vary between sixteen and 18 oz. While a lighter cue is usually for beginners to develop correct technique when starting out, some professional snooker players employ lighter cues (xv – xvi ane/2 oz.), Joe Davis, John Spencer, Terry Griffiths, Mark Williams and Paul Hunter, to proper noun a few. The residue point of a cue is ordinarily 16 to 18 inches from the butt terminate.

Minimum length for a snooker cue

The official rules of both snooker and billiards land that "A cue shall exist not less than three ft (914 mm) in length and shall show no change from the traditional tapered shape and class, with a tip, used to strike the cue-ball, secured to the thinner end."^[8] This rule was introduced following an incident on 14 November 1938 when Alec Brown was playing Tom Newman at Thurston's Hall in the 1938/1939 Daily Mail Gold Loving cup. In the 3rd frame, Brown potted a ruby-red, subsequently which the cue ball was left amidst several reds, with only a narrow way through to the black, the merely colour not snookered, and which was about its spot. Playing this with conventional equipment would accept been awkward. To the surprise of spectators, Chocolate-brown produced a small-scale fountain pen-sized cue from his belong pocket, chalked it, and played the stroke. Newman protested at this.

The referee, Charles Chambers, then inspected the implement, a strip of ebony almost five inches long, with one end having a cue tip. Chambers decided to honor a foul, and awarded Newman 7 points. In response to questions, the referee quoted the rule that said all strokes must be made with the tip of the cue, so he did not regard the "fountain-pen cue" as a valid cue. Viii days afterward, the Billiards Clan and Control Council, which owned the rules, met and decided to introduce a new rule, which has been adult into today'south version: "A billiards cue, as recognised by the Billiards and Control Council, shall not exist less than three feet in length, and shall show no substantial divergence from the traditional and by and large accepted shape and form."^{[ix] [ten]}

Speciality [edit]

Manufacturers besides provide a diverseness of specialty cues tailored to specific shots. Puddle interruption cues have tips made from very difficult leather (sometimes layered) or phenolic resin to ensure that the full forcefulness of the stroke is transferred to the cue brawl during the suspension shot , and to avoid excessive wearable-and-tear on the tips and ferrules of players' master shooting cues. Phenolic-tipped break cues often accept a merged phenolic ferrule-tip, instead of two dissever pieces.

Leap cues are shorter, lighter (12 ounces and less) cues that make performing a legal jump shot easier, and also often have a very hard tip. Some standard-sized break cues include a two-piece butt allowing a histrion to remove the lower, heavier half of the butt to produce a jump cue; these are commonly referred to as spring–interruption or suspension–jump cues. The uncommon massé cue is curt and heavy, with a wider tip to assistance in making massé shots .

Practitioners of creative billiards and artistic puddle sometimes have xx or more than cues, each specifically tailored to a particular trick shot. Other specialty cues have multiple sections, between which weights tin can be added. Another specialization is the barrel extension, which can exist slipped over or screwed into the normal barrel, to lengthen the cue and reduce dependency on the mechanical span .

A high quality two-piece cue with a nearly invisible wood-to-woods joint , so that it looks similar a cheap jumpsuit business firm cue , is chosen a sneaky pete .^[11] Such a cue may be used by a hustler to temporarily fool unsuspecting gamblers into thinking that he or she is a novice.

Shaft [edit]

Shafts are made with various tapers, the 2 almost mutual being the pro taper and the European taper. The pro taper has the same bore from the tip to 30–35 cm (12–14 inches) toward the joint, at which point information technology begins to widen. The European taper widens continually and smoothly from the ferrule toward the joint. Despite their names, the continually sloping European taper is found in most North American bar and business firm cues, and non all professional players prefer a straight pro taper on their custom, two-piece models.

Tip [edit]

Dime- and nickel-radius cue tips (left to correct, respectively)

Leather tips of varying curvature and degrees of hardness are glued to (or in some cases screwed into) the ferrule. The de facto standard curvatures for a pool tip are dime- and nickel-radius, determined past shaping a tip so that when i puts a nickel or dime to it, they take the same curvature. The tip end of the cue will vary in bore but is typically in the 9 to 14 millimeter range with 12–13 mm for pool cues, and nine–10 mm for Snooker cues being near common.

Rounder (i.e., smaller radius) tips impart spin to the cue brawl more easily since the point of contact between the tip and the ball requires less altitude from the centre hitting to impart the aforementioned corporeality of spin, due to the increased tangential contact. Tips for break and jump cues are commonly nickel radius or fifty-fifty flatter, and sometimes fabricated of harder materials such every bit phenolic resin; the shots are forceful, and normally require less spin.

A leather tip naturally compresses and hardens with subsequent shots. Without proper care, the surface of the tip can develop an undesired smoothness or glossiness which tin can significantly reduce the desired friction between the tip and the cue ball. Cue chalk is practical to the tip of the cue, ideally after every other shot or so, to help achieve the desired friction and minimize the chance of a miscue . This is specially important when the cue tip does not striking the cue ball in its heart and thereby imparts spin to the cue ball.

There are unlike grades of hardness for tips, ranging from very soft to very hard. Softer tips (major brands include Elk Master and Blue Diamond) concord chalk better, but tend to degrade faster from abrasion (from chalk and scuffers), shaping (from cue tip shapers/tackers/picks), and mushrooming (the sides of the tip bulge out from long normal use or from hard hits that compact the tip in all directions). Harder tips (major brands include Blue Diamond Plus, Triangle and Le Professional or "Le Pro") maintain their shape much better, but because of their hardness, chalk tends to not concord likewise as it does on softer tips. The hardness of a leather tip is determined from its compression and tanning during the manufacturing process.

All cue tips one time were of a jumpsuit construction, as are many today (including LePro and Triangle). More recently some tips are made of layers that are laminated together (major brands include Kamui, Moori and Talisman). Harder tips and laminated tips hold their shape better than softer tips and jumpsuit tips. Laminated tips generally cost more than one-piece tips due to their more all-encompassing manufacturing process. A potential problem with layered tips is delamination, where a layer begins to separate from some other or the tip completely comes apart. This is not common and usually results from improper installation, misuse of tip tools, or loftier impact massé shots. 1-piece tips are non bailiwick to this problem, just they do tend to mushroom more hands.

These days there are constructed, faux -leather or even rubber cue tips available that have like playing characteristics to animate being-hide tips. Often these are less afflicted by moisture and humidity than leather tips, tend less to bulge and mis-shapen, and are suitable substitutes for the average player.^{[ commendation needed ]}

Ferrule [edit]

The end of the shaft has a cuff known as the ferrule, which is used to concur the cue tip in place and to bear the brunt of affect with the cue brawl and then that the less resilient shaft woods does not separate. Ferrules are no longer made of ivory, but, rather, are at present made of carbon fiber, or a plastic such every bit melamine resin, or phenolic resin, which are extremely durable, high-touch on materials that are resistant to corking, chipping, and breaking. Brass ferrules are sometimes used, especially for snooker cues.

Joint [edit]

The heavy, lower piece of the cue is the cue butt, and the smaller, narrower end is the shaft. The ii cue pieces are fastened at the joint; normally a screw rising from butt end's articulation (male) is threaded into a receptacle on the shaft (female), or vice versa. The joints are fabricated of various materials, most often a plastic, brass, stainless steel, or woods outer layer, but some custom cues are made of os, antlers, or other more than expensive materials that are less common, simply serve the same effect. Well-nigh snooker cues have brass-to-brass joints. The internal male and female person connection points are almost ever brass or steel because they respond less to temperature changes and thus expand and contract less than other materials, preserving the life of the cue. Joints have different sizes as well equally different male and female ends on the shaft and butts of the cues. Traditional designs apply a fully threaded connection, while newer versions (marketed nether such names as Uni-loc, Accu-loc, Speed-loc, and Tru-loc) employ half-threaded "quick pin release" connections that allow players to gather and detach their cues faster.

Butt [edit]

The bulk of the weight of the cue is usually distributed in the cue butt portion. Whether the weight be 16 oz. or 22 oz., the weight change is mainly in the butt (unremarkably in the core, under the wrap). Butts have varying constructions, from three-piece to jumpsuit, every bit well as other custom versions that people have adult. These translate into unlike "feels" because of the distribution of weight as well as the remainder point of the cue. Traditionally, players want the balance point of a cue near the top end of the wrap or around seven inches from where they grip the butt. Some brands, and about custom cuemakers offering weights, usually metal discs of 1 to 2 ounces, that tin be added at one or more places to adapt the residual and total weight and feel of the cue.

The cue barrel is oft inlaid with exotic forest such as cocobolo and bocote as well as other materials such as ebony and mother of pearl. Usually parts of the butt are sectioned off with decorative rings. The use of various types of wraps on the cue butt, such equally Irish linen or leather, provide a role player with a amend grip likewise every bit absorbing moisture. Low-priced cues usually feature a nylon wrap which is considered not as adept a "feel" every bit Irish gaelic Linen. Fiberglass and Graphite cues usually have a "Veltex" grip that is made of fiberglass/graphite, but is smoother and not sleeky. Some people also prefer a cue with no wrap, and thus just a glossed end on wood. Sometimes these no-wrap cues are more decorated because of the increased area for design and imagination. The butts of less expensive cues are ordinarily spliced hardwood and a plastic covering while more loftier-finish cues use solid rosewood or ebony. Snooker cues might be merely the forest, waxed or oiled (bees wax, linseed oil).

Bumper [edit]

The final part a cue is the bumper, made of safety (puddle) or leather (snooker). Though often considered less important than other parts of a cue, this office is essential for protecting a cue. The bumper protects the cue when it rests on the ground or accidentally hits a wall, table, etc. Without the bumper, such impacts might crack the butt over an extended period of time. The "feel" of the cue (encounter below) is also an issue – without the bumper, the resonance of the cue hitting the cue brawl may vibrate differently than in a cue with a properly attached, tight bumper. Though small, the bumper also adds some weight on the end of the cue, preserving a balance that likewise impacts the feel of a cue.

Materials and design [edit]

A cue tin be either hand- or auto-spliced. The option of materials used in the structure of the cue butt and the artistry of the design can lead to cues of nifty beauty and high price. Skillful quality pool cues are customarily made from straight-grained hard rock maple woods, particularly the shaft. Snooker cues, by contrast, are almost ever fabricated of ash forest, although one might come across ane with a maple shaft. Maple is stiffer than ash, and cheaper. Cues are non always for play, some are purely collectible and can reach prices of tens of thousands of dollars for the materials they are made of and their exquisite craftsmanship.^{[ citation needed ]}

A practiced cue needn't exist expensive. These "collector" cues accept fine workmanship and apply top quality materials. They are designed with ornate inlays in varying types of woods, precious metals and stones, all in a multitude of styles and sometimes displaying works of art.^[12] The inlays are stained, translucent, transparent or painted. These cues are likewise valued because of how well they perform. Competitors of custom cue makers and mass-production manufacturers usually try to make cues look like they are fabricated of expensive materials by using overlays and decals. Although these lower the cost of the cues, they practice not degrade the cues' effectiveness in game play. Another marker of quality is the precision with which inlays are set. High quality inlays fit perfectly with no gaps; they are symmetrical on all sides, also every bit cutting cleanly so that all edges and points are sharp, non rounded. The use of machines has aided much in the production of loftier quality inlays and other ornaments.^{[ citation needed ]}

Notable makers [edit]

There have been a number of cue makers over the years; among them are George Balabushka,^[13] Herman Rambow, John Parris (Church Vale, London), Hunt & O'Byrne (Butler's Wharf, London), Palmer, Han's Delta, Predator, Longoni, Samsara, Southwest, Szamboti, and Tascarella, whose cues are frequently very valuable to collectors.

Run into also [edit]

•  Cue sports portal

References [edit]

1. ^ ^{a b} Shamos, Mike (1999). The New Illustrated Encyclopedia of Billiards. New York: Lyons Press. ISBN1-55821-797-5.
2. ^ "Cue Maker and Cues Glossary". EasyPoolTutor. 2003–2007. Archived from the original on 11 Dec 2007. Retrieved 1 December 2007.
3. ^ ^{a b c d e f chiliad h i j grand fifty 1000 n} Everton, Clive (1986). The History of Snooker and Billiards (rev. ver. of The Story of Billiards and Snooker, 1979 ed.). Haywards Heath, U.k.: Partridge Pr. pp. 8–11. ISBN1-85225-013-5.
4. ^ Oxford English language Lexicon (2nd ed.). Oxford: Oxford U. Pr. 1989. "billiard stick" entry.
5. ^ Phelan, Michael (1859). The Game of Billiards. New York: D. Appleton & Co. p. 44.
6. ^ ^{a b} Kilby, Ronald (May 23, 2009). "Then What'south a Carom Cue?". CaromCues.com. Medford, OR: Kilby Cues. Archived from the original on June 24, 2008. Retrieved November 20, 2009.
7. ^ See online and offline retailers. Virtually all modern snooker cues are 56.five to 59 inches, with a 57 inch length accounting for about 90% of the market (of major manufacturers, only one defaults to 58 inches). Weights range from xv to 19 ounces (0.48–54–kg) High-terminate cues are almost always compatible with one or more than butt extension types, and often include one.
8. ^ "Official Rules of the Games of Snooker and English Billiards" (PDF). wpbsa.com. World Professional person Billiards and Snooker Association. Retrieved 15 September 2019.
9. ^ "News of the month". The Billiard Player. No. December 1938. p.vii. {{cite news}}: CS1 maint: location (link)
10. ^ Clare, Norman. Billiards and Snooker Bygones. Shire Publications. ISBN9780852637302.
11. ^ Mataya Laurance, Ewa; Thomas C. Shaw (1999). The Complete Idiot's Guide to Pool & Billiards . New York: Alpha Books. p. 79. ISBN0-02-862645-1.
12. ^ "Best Pool Cues and Cuemakers Throughout History – cuezilla.com". Cuezilla.com . Retrieved six July 2017.
13. ^ Martin, R.; Rosser Reeves (1993). The 99 Critical Shots in Pool: Everything Y'all Need to Know to Acquire and Primary the Game. Other Printing. Times Books. p. 6. ISBN978-0-8129-2241-7 . Retrieved March 26, 2019.

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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cue_stick